The Real Heart of Thanksgiving [The New York Times]
New York Times Company (The) (NYT)
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Source: The New York Times
The Real Heart of Thanksgiving - The New York Times Every November, celery performs countless tasks: It perfumes the holiday turkey, lending moisture from the inside out; it’s the backbone of the stock in gravy; it adds bite and vegetal flavor to stuffing. But rarely does this tireless Thanksgiving staple get any thanks. “It’s hard to make it the center of the spectacle, but on the back end, it’s everywhere,” said Ignacio Mattos, the chef and owner of Estela Flora Bar Café Altro Paradiso Treated like a workhorse, celery does its job, but it’s so much more than a sidekick to Buffalo wings. Given the opportunity, these stalks shine — versatile enough to be enjoyed raw, simmered until silky or cooked to any state in between. Celery’s bright, citrusy flavors mollify with heat, and its stalks provide a prodigious range of textures. Celery reigned supreme at the Thanksgiving table in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Raw stalks were attentively arranged in crystal vases created specif
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